If you are hunting down a rough idle, dealing with oil consumption, tracking down an unexpected check engine light like a P0171 lean code, or just trying to shield your expensive twin turbos from contamination, you need to check your PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve.
Shops will routinely charge between $50 and $150 to replace this component. They will write up a full hour of labor on the service ticket for a task that takes less than five minutes of actual work.
This master tech guide breaks down the exact 2017 Ford Explorer PCV valve location on the popular 3.5L EcoBoost engine, why waiting for Ford’s official service interval can destroy your engine’s plumbing, and how to swap it out yourself for under $20.
(Note: This identical procedure applies to all 2013–2019 Ford 3.5L EcoBoost platforms, including the Ford Flex, Taurus SHO, Lincoln MKT, and Lincoln MKS).
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This means if you click an affiliate link and buy a part, I earn a small commission at zero extra cost to you. Thanks for supporting the shop!
📍 Where is the 2017 Ford Explorer PCV Valve Location?
On the 3.5L EcoBoost V6 engine, the PCV valve is located on the passenger-side valve cover (Bank 1), right at the very back of the engine bay near the firewall.
It is tucked directly underneath the large black plastic air intake plenum tube running across the top of the motor. You do not need to remove the entire intake assembly to access it; you simply need to disconnect the quick-release PCV vacuum hose line and slide it out of the way to gain complete access to the valve base.
Prevent yourself from being stranded on the highway with an overheated vehicle. Here’s my article on How often should I replace my car’s thermostat?
🚨 The 100,000-Mile Service Trap (Turbo Insurance)
If you pull out your factory Ford maintenance booklet, it suggests replacing the PCV valve as scheduled preventative maintenance every 100,000 miles.
⚠️ MASTER TECH WARNING: Waiting until 100,000 miles to service this valve on a direct-injected, twin-turbocharged engine is an absolute gamble.
The 3.5L EcoBoost platform is incredibly prone to high crankcase pressures and heavy oil blowby. Over time, atomized engine oil deposits and carbon vapor travel straight through the PCV loop. This completely gums up the internal spring-loaded check mechanism, sticking it wide open or completely shut.
If your PCV valve fails or sticks, the consequences cascade quickly:
- Intercooler Contamination: Heavy engine oil blowby gets forced directly backward down into your front intercooler core, drastically lowering cooling efficiency.
- Turbo Failure: Turbos demand perfectly clean, unrestricted air induction to spin safely at high RPMs; oil contamination ruins seals and bearings.
- Driveability Issues: A stuck valve throws off your unmetered air calcs, triggering lean codes, rough idles, and poor fuel efficiency.
To ensure solid structural “insurance” for your twin-turbo setup, replace this valve every 30,000 to 50,000 miles.
🔧 Step-by-Step 3.5L EcoBoost PCV Valve Replacement
You do not need a massive mechanical toolset for this upgrade. All you need is a basic adjustable wrench or a set of locking pliers to safely unlock the twist notches.
1.Disconnect the Vacuum Hose:Est. Time: 1 Min.
Locate the PCV valve at the passenger-side rear corner of the valve cover. Push the colored quick-release retaining lever over to the side and pull the vacuum hose straight off the top plastic barb of the valve. Move the hose clear of the work zone.
2.Unlock the Old PCV Valve:Twist & Release.
The PCV valve is held into the plastic valve cover via locking tabs rather than metal threads. Use an adjustable wrench to firmly grasp the flat edges of the valve body. Carefully twist the valve counterclockwise until the alignment tabs clear the notches, then pull straight up.
3.Prep the New O-Ring:Master Tech Secret.
Take your fresh replacement valve out of the box. Dip your finger into a bottle of clean engine oil and apply a very light coating around the new rubber O-ring seal. This lubrication keeps the O-ring from binding, pinching, or tearing during the twist-lock installation.
4.Install the New Valve:Turn Until It Clicks.
Drop the new lubricated valve down into the valve cover receiver port, aligning the bottom plastic tabs with the notches in the cover. Twist the valve firmly clockwise using your hand or wrench until you feel the alignment tabs snap and lock securely into place.
5.Reattach the Vacuum Line:Est. Time: 30 Sec.
Slide the vacuum tube back down over the top barb of your brand-new valve. Push down firmly until you hear the quick-release clip lock into position. Double-check that the line is seated completely tight to prevent throwing any unmetered air vacuum codes.
🛠️ Parts & Tools Resource List
To keep your repair costs under $20, grab your replacement parts directly using our tracking links below:
- OEM Replacement Valve: [Get the Exact Ford 3.5L EcoBoost PCV Valve Here on Amazon]
- Lubricant: Standard clean 5W-30 motor oil for the internal rubber seal prep.
While servicing your engine’s internal airflow networks, make sure you aren’t choking out your combustion chambers. Check out our step-by-step field tutorial on how to properly Clean Your Fuel Injectors to restore missing horsepower and peak MPG performance.
Support the Wrench Army Grind
If learning the PCV Valve Location & Easy Replacement saved you hundreds of dollars in shop labor fees today, consider supporting the channel so we can keep pumping out high-quality, free repair blueprints:
- Gear Up: Rep the crew and protect your skin with heavy-duty, garage-tested apparel from the Wrench Army Store.
- Flip Cars for Profit: Ready to graduate from basic maintenance to making serious side cash buying, fixing, and selling vehicles? Check out our complete tactical breakdown in The Flipping Formula Ebook available on our main site.
